We returned the way we'd come for a while the next morning, passing Campamento Chileno and continuing towards the rocks until the road split and we took a different trail to go to Refugio Los Cuernos and on to Campamento Italiano. The trail was easier than the rocky hill we'd walked along the first day, but the wind was vicious, nearly blowing Stephanie off a cliff at one point and knocking Carrie and me to the ground at another point.
After getting into a comfortable but slow pattern of walk, duck and brace for wind, walk, Holy Crap DUCK! (etc), we had the hang of it and our fill of wind. We had to cross a few rivers along the way - each one more difficult than the last, until we ended up wading through the final (huge, fast and cold) river in bare feet. Wow, cold water this close to Antarctica. Despite the absurd winds and the freezing water, we were graced with beautiful, sunny weather and gorgeous views along the valleys the whole trip.
When we finally got to the expensive Refugio, we caved and paid for a spot for the tent because we weren't going to make the 2.5 hours to the free Campamento Italiano before nightfall. We ate dinner and modified our trip plan, cutting the planned "W" trail into more of a backwards "Y" to accomodate Carrie's crappy bag clasp and the fact that neither she nor Steph had ever backpacked before. The next day we'd go to Campamento Italiano, with a day hike to the glaciar for anyone who wanted to, and the next day we'd go south to catch the ferry to the bus back to Puerto Natales.
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| Torres del Paine, Chile |
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