Our last few days in the States and a note on the North

We've signed year-long contracts with a school in Korea. We sent our documents to Korea for the school to initiate the visa process. When their half was finished and they sent us our visa issuance numbers, we drove overnight from Mt. Shasta to Berkeley, slept for a few hours, dressed up all nice and took our passports and paperwork to the San Francisco consulate. Despite the hassle of new procedures that weren't necessary a couple years ago (background checks that must be notarized and have an apostille, in-person interviews at the consulate), we were surprised by the speed with which we received our visas. Although interviews are technically required now, since we were not first time applicants and we apparently didn't look murderous, the woman we spoke to simply told us to come back in 2 days to pick up our visas. No interview necessary. I'm not sure if it was our appearance, our experience, or the fact that we'd used some hangeul (Korean writing) on our applications... But we certainly weren't going to complain!

We are in the Bay Area now and pretty much packed - all our suitcases are maxed out at 50 pounds each (United Airlines' maximum allowance for free luggage) and we've just left a few articles of clothing out for our last weekend here. On Sunday afternoon, we'll fly out of SFO and (after crossing the international date line) arrive on Monday evening in Incheon.

Because of some attempted sabotage earlier in our job search (we worked for such lovely people...), we're not willing to post information about our new school or location until we arrive, but we're very excited about it and we'll hopefully post updates in the next week or so. We've been in contact with a current teacher there and it sounds like a good fit for us (though a lot of work). But hey, after a 10-month vacation, we should be plenty rested!

At the moment we're working on studying some Korean and getting ready to teach and live in Korea again. We're excited to return and see old friends, explore a new area, enjoy Korea, and get back to teaching. Of course, after such a long break, we're also a bit nervous about getting back into the classroom. Luckily, since we're arriving late on Monday, we probably won't start teaching until the next Monday, which would mean nearly a full week of observation. If we do in fact start teaching the day after we arrive.... We'll be too surprised to get nervous :-)

On a more serious note, I know that the Koreas have been in the news a bit recently. The North is (as always, it seems) being a bit impulsive, and the former South Korean president committed suicide last month. We've received a few concerned e-mails and calls from worried friends and family about returning to that region of the world. In response, I would like to point out a few things. First, North Korea was launching test missiles before we first went to South Korea in 2007 and yet our year there was uneventful. In fact, the South seemed relatively unperturbed by the launches. Second, North Korea's closest allies, Russia and China,joined the other members of the UN Security Council in unanimously imposing sanctions on North Korea after their recent nuclear test. 

In addition to an underground nuclear test, missile launches, and the capture and sentencing of 2 American journalists to 12 years in labor camps, the North routinely threatens to attack anyone who does not bow to their demands. The escalation of their rhetoric and actions is most likely a response to the new South Korean government's harder stance against (and discontinued aid to) North Korea and the ailing health of Kim Jong Il. It's a country of millions of people who are, for the most part, starving. The government clearly has no diplomatic tact whatsoever, and threats are a childish response to a difficult situation. However, childish and wacky as Kim Jong Il and his family may be, we do not believe that they are suicidal or stupid. They know that attacking South Korea would put them in an immediate war against South Korea and all its allies (including the U.S.). That's why they haven't attacked for years. Now more than ever, at a point where even their closest allies are disapproving of their actions, any attack against the South would be short-lived, disastrous and costly for the North, not to mention idiotic. More likely, they are just vying for attention and posturing in order to gain some sort of leverage to demand more international aid. 

We don't think that traveling to and living in South Korea is any more dangerous than it was a few years ago. In fact, given some of the crazy and scary things that have been happening in the U.S., it may be safer than staying here. To tip the scales a bit more, there are people in Korea that we love, places that we miss, and an amazing culture that calls to us even in our dreams (I may be so deeply in kimchi withdrawal that it affects my sleep). 

So, dear friends and family, don't worry. Things look crazy in the media. They always do - it's how newspapers sell, after all. Bad things happen all over the world, but it's not a reason to hide out at home. The actual risk of going to Korea is far lower than the risk involved in visiting many other places (some of which we have been to in the past few months). We'll keep an eye on the situation and we'll keep you updated as much as possible. Also, if you want to come see things from the other side of the pond (no, the other pond. The BIG one), we're always happy to introduce people to Korea :-)

We're excited to continue our Korean adventure - Part 2 commence!

-J&J

An alternate realityGeumgangsan, North Korea

Our trip to North Korea was a surreal event. As we passed into the DMZ, we had to hand over our cellphones and were not allowed to take pictures while the bus was driving. When the bus reached the 38th parallel, the actual divide within the DMZ, we left our cellphones and the bus behind, taking all of our things with us through immigration where they inspected our passports and cameras before letting us pass through and board a new bus. We were officially out of South Korea as our passports stated, but we were not officially in North Korea. We would be simply gone until we reappeared in South Korea and got our passports re-stamped. Perhaps this is a method of preventing difficulties for western travelers whose home countries are not on good terms with North Korea, but I have to say, even US officials would probably be able to figure out that a two day sojourn from South Korea with no location in the meanwhile is not physically possible. Oh well. Now we were in North Korea, if officially nowhere. We boarded the new bus, and were informed that we must never take pictures or even look at our cameras while the bus was moving because North Korean guards were placed along the roadside with a flag in one hand and a very big gun in the other. If they saw someone take a picture, they would board the bus and confiscate the camera. Also, for fear of heavy fines, we were cautioned to be careful not to provoke the soldiers in any way, such as pointing from the bus. When there is a man in an army uniform with a gun pointed at your bus, you do as your told.

We passed through the DMZ, observing the beautiful scenery. Aside from the occasional tank and the still-posted sign stating: "Number one enemy: USA", the DMZ is a very beautiful place. Having been allowed years to flourish without human presence, the area has become a wildlife refuge, full of vegetation and quite beautiful in contrast to the tanks and checkpoints.

Eventually we reached the main square near Geumgang Mountain: A tourist hub with restaurants, hotels, convenience stores, and an acrobatic theater. We slept and ate in this area and took designated shuttles to other places: the beach, various hikes in the mountains, hot springs, etc., but we were not allowed to leave the square on our own, or a North Korean soldier would follow us (gun included) and politely suggest that we return.

We went on two hikes in the mountains - the first was a trek through a very steep area with many impressive jagged cliffs rising above us, and the second was an easier climb to a waterfall and then to a high peak over looking a series of blue-green lakes below. Both hikes were beautiful and strikingly quiet - the lack of cellphones, plus the enforced rule that people come on shuttles led to hikes on which, if anyone was nearby, it was most likely a large group that would either pass you or you could pass them and then you were alone again.

The hiking was beautiful and the trip was amazing, but it perhaps raised more questions than it answered - what is the life of a North Korean like? What do they think of us, the tourists who come in with a lot of money and eat at restaurants that serve full meals in a country where most of the population is starving? What do they know about us, or about other countries? How do they feel about North Korea’s relative isolation? Do they have family in the South? How would their lives change if the Koreas reunite again?

Although the trip was expensive and most of the money will go to the government and not to the people of North Korea, we are glad that we had the opportunity to see the country - even if we only saw a tiny portion.

On our way out, our guide informed us that we could wave to the North Korean soldier who stood just on the northern side of the 38th parallel. So as we passed, the entire bus of about 40 westerners leaned to the right and waved to the soldier. He did not blink, smile or react at all, but remained standing rigidly straight, gun pointing straight ahead. Comforting. As we passed the divide, a South Korean guard was on our left side. We all leaned to the left and waved at him. He waved enthusiastically back, gun at his side. I can understand why the North always seems to be more on the offensive, and even more powerful than the South (without the help of other countries), but I have to say, we liked that southern soldier a whole lot more. It was good to come back home.