07 December 2008

Tunnels, photos, and which bus not to take

Cajamarca, Peru

Our bus (the Emtrafesa one that was the only one of the four companies we approached that had service to Cajamarca) broke down somewhere along the road. It was dark and abandoned and we would have slept quietly through it except for the long line of passengers filing out to switch to the other bus and the constant thudding of luggage being moved from one bus to the other (none too carefully, I might add). We filed out to oversee the movement of our bags (which were probably small enough to have fit above our seats in this bus but since the last one had had absolutely NO storage space, we had assumed this bus would be the same). Expecting to see luggage - backpacks, suitcases and the like - we were a bit surprised to see that they were moving boxes instead. Hundreds of them. Although it was a passenger line (rather than cargo), someone had decided to bring over 200 boxes of shoes (or at least shoe boxes) with them. It wouldn't have really been a problem if we didn't have to wait for all of them to be moved to the new bus before we were reassured with the *scrape, thud* of our own small backpacks being transferred.

Secure in the knowledge that our bags were still with us (and mentally checking that we did not in fact have anything breakable inside), we hopped on the new bus and went back to sleep. I was sitting next to the window, and every time I woke up, I was treated to the lovely view of the hills and views below us. Far below us. And the cliff that ended just about a foot from the bus' tires. Generally, I tried not to wake up.

We finally arrived, only a couple hours late from the breakdown, and set off to find a hostel for the night before buying our bus tickets to Trujillo... This time with a different company.

We spent the day exploring around the town center, which was an easy walk from our hostel. Our breakfast was queso mantecoso (Cajamarca is known for it's cheeses) and bread, and then we headed off to see the lovely plaza and churches around it. The sun was so incredibly bright that, although we had put on tons of sunscreen, we were clearly turning red within seconds of stepping into the sunlight (Jay too!), so we escaped into an internet cafe for a couple hours to upload photos and posts from the past week. When the clouds gave us a bit of cover, we walked around a bit more, had lunch, and headed back to the hostel for a few very close games of "Glory to Rome" and Jay worked on his Spanish and guitar.

This morning we got up early, checked out, and left our backpacks in the hostel office. We then headed up Santa Apolonia hill to the Silla del Inca (Incan chair) and some beautiful views of the city. There was a small tunnel cut into some of the rocks on the hill, so we had a nice place to escape to when the rain started coming down. And now here we are, back in the same lovely internet cafe, putting up our photos. Yay World Wide Web. For reference, the photos that look darker or have Jay in them are probably mine (I figured out how to get my camera to take mini-JPG copies with the NEF files!), and the others are Jay's. Enjoy! And for those of you who are sending us e-mails, we're sorry that we don't respond very quickly - we've only come into internet cafes a couple times. But we do read them and appreciate them very much! Keep 'em comin'! :-)

Photos of Cajamarca:





05 December 2008

Trujillo and the band of raucus taxis

Terrapuerto de Emtrafesa, Trujillo, Peru:

Yesterday we arrived in Trujillo in the morning and found ourselves a hostel (Chan Chan Inn). After dropping off our stuff, we headed out to find bus tickets for the next night (to Cajamarca). We tried with Cruz del Sur, Flores, and finally found the route with Emtrafesa, whose office was near our hostel. Secure in our plans, we had breakfast (Tamales for me, bistec for Jay) and set off to explore the city. There was a spontaneous tiny play (two actors and an assistant) that started in the Plaza Mayor soon after we arrived. We watched a bit of it, then explored around the plaza before heading off down a side street where we signed up for a tour bus leaving for Chan Chan. Chan Chan is a site of the Chimú, a pre-Incan civilization. We saw remains of their palaces and complexes, plus an interesting museum that explained more about their culture.

At the end of the tour, we went to Huanchaco, a small city by the ocean. We loved it and decided that we'd return the next day. (When given the option between the Huacas de la Luna y del Sol - another ancient site - or lazing about on the beach, we are, as it turns out, Californian).

We awoke to the noise of the street. We'd read (on WikiTravel) that the taxis in Trujillo honk their horns for any reason - because they have space, because they're full, because they're angry at other drivers, to show that they're happy, or to announce that it's Tuesday... I think there may be more taxis than there are people here. It's visible. Oh, and it's very, very audible.

We packed up, left our bags in the office of our hostel (Chan Chan Inn), and set out for Huanchaco. We hopped on a microbus (almost the only bus among all the taxis) - the assistant to the driver stands at the door and leans out, yelling the destination of the bus and ocasionally lifting small children into the bus (as far as we could tell, the parents with the kids also wanted to board and so they were not worried by this). He also collected the bus fare of the passengers as they got off of the bus. It took a bit over half an hour to get to Huanchaco, but when we got there, it was as lovely as we'd remembered. Miles and miles of warm sand along a beautiful ocean, and plenty of space to sit.

I went for a run along the coast while Jay studied his Spanish (while galliantly guarding our things, he adds). When I got back, we relaxed in the sun and enjoyed the sound of the waves. When we'd finished our exhausting day (Zoe style), we got some ice cream (Passionfruit, lemon, and strawberry), and had lunch. (Arroz con mariscos with un batido de plátano for me, and Bistec a lo pobre and jugo de naranja for Jay. Bistec a lo pobre "Poor man's steak", basically, is rubbery, flattened and very cooked beef served with french fries, a fried egg, and some rice. Jay seems enthralled, and I have no explanations for you.) I then succeeded in buying a lovely sarang and we hung out near the coast, watching soccer games and observing the sunset from our perch upon some rocks. Before leaving, we had pisco sours and French fries (Jay's idea again) and then headed back to Trujillo to get our stuff and wait for the bus to Cajamarca.

For now, enjoy some photos. These are all Jay's because my photo format can't upload from here... So, I will take photos of him as well with his camera so it won't be so frighteningly Jessie-centric. Ah, and Jay also chose which ones to upload, so don't mind the dogs in Huanchaco. He felt pity for the little one.



Trujillo:






Huanchaco: