07 December 2008

Tunnels, photos, and which bus not to take

Cajamarca, Peru

Our bus (the Emtrafesa one that was the only one of the four companies we approached that had service to Cajamarca) broke down somewhere along the road. It was dark and abandoned and we would have slept quietly through it except for the long line of passengers filing out to switch to the other bus and the constant thudding of luggage being moved from one bus to the other (none too carefully, I might add). We filed out to oversee the movement of our bags (which were probably small enough to have fit above our seats in this bus but since the last one had had absolutely NO storage space, we had assumed this bus would be the same). Expecting to see luggage - backpacks, suitcases and the like - we were a bit surprised to see that they were moving boxes instead. Hundreds of them. Although it was a passenger line (rather than cargo), someone had decided to bring over 200 boxes of shoes (or at least shoe boxes) with them. It wouldn't have really been a problem if we didn't have to wait for all of them to be moved to the new bus before we were reassured with the *scrape, thud* of our own small backpacks being transferred.

Secure in the knowledge that our bags were still with us (and mentally checking that we did not in fact have anything breakable inside), we hopped on the new bus and went back to sleep. I was sitting next to the window, and every time I woke up, I was treated to the lovely view of the hills and views below us. Far below us. And the cliff that ended just about a foot from the bus' tires. Generally, I tried not to wake up.

We finally arrived, only a couple hours late from the breakdown, and set off to find a hostel for the night before buying our bus tickets to Trujillo... This time with a different company.

We spent the day exploring around the town center, which was an easy walk from our hostel. Our breakfast was queso mantecoso (Cajamarca is known for it's cheeses) and bread, and then we headed off to see the lovely plaza and churches around it. The sun was so incredibly bright that, although we had put on tons of sunscreen, we were clearly turning red within seconds of stepping into the sunlight (Jay too!), so we escaped into an internet cafe for a couple hours to upload photos and posts from the past week. When the clouds gave us a bit of cover, we walked around a bit more, had lunch, and headed back to the hostel for a few very close games of "Glory to Rome" and Jay worked on his Spanish and guitar.

This morning we got up early, checked out, and left our backpacks in the hostel office. We then headed up Santa Apolonia hill to the Silla del Inca (Incan chair) and some beautiful views of the city. There was a small tunnel cut into some of the rocks on the hill, so we had a nice place to escape to when the rain started coming down. And now here we are, back in the same lovely internet cafe, putting up our photos. Yay World Wide Web. For reference, the photos that look darker or have Jay in them are probably mine (I figured out how to get my camera to take mini-JPG copies with the NEF files!), and the others are Jay's. Enjoy! And for those of you who are sending us e-mails, we're sorry that we don't respond very quickly - we've only come into internet cafes a couple times. But we do read them and appreciate them very much! Keep 'em comin'! :-)

Photos of Cajamarca:





05 December 2008

Trujillo and the band of raucus taxis

Terrapuerto de Emtrafesa, Trujillo, Peru:

Yesterday we arrived in Trujillo in the morning and found ourselves a hostel (Chan Chan Inn). After dropping off our stuff, we headed out to find bus tickets for the next night (to Cajamarca). We tried with Cruz del Sur, Flores, and finally found the route with Emtrafesa, whose office was near our hostel. Secure in our plans, we had breakfast (Tamales for me, bistec for Jay) and set off to explore the city. There was a spontaneous tiny play (two actors and an assistant) that started in the Plaza Mayor soon after we arrived. We watched a bit of it, then explored around the plaza before heading off down a side street where we signed up for a tour bus leaving for Chan Chan. Chan Chan is a site of the Chimú, a pre-Incan civilization. We saw remains of their palaces and complexes, plus an interesting museum that explained more about their culture.

At the end of the tour, we went to Huanchaco, a small city by the ocean. We loved it and decided that we'd return the next day. (When given the option between the Huacas de la Luna y del Sol - another ancient site - or lazing about on the beach, we are, as it turns out, Californian).

We awoke to the noise of the street. We'd read (on WikiTravel) that the taxis in Trujillo honk their horns for any reason - because they have space, because they're full, because they're angry at other drivers, to show that they're happy, or to announce that it's Tuesday... I think there may be more taxis than there are people here. It's visible. Oh, and it's very, very audible.

We packed up, left our bags in the office of our hostel (Chan Chan Inn), and set out for Huanchaco. We hopped on a microbus (almost the only bus among all the taxis) - the assistant to the driver stands at the door and leans out, yelling the destination of the bus and ocasionally lifting small children into the bus (as far as we could tell, the parents with the kids also wanted to board and so they were not worried by this). He also collected the bus fare of the passengers as they got off of the bus. It took a bit over half an hour to get to Huanchaco, but when we got there, it was as lovely as we'd remembered. Miles and miles of warm sand along a beautiful ocean, and plenty of space to sit.

I went for a run along the coast while Jay studied his Spanish (while galliantly guarding our things, he adds). When I got back, we relaxed in the sun and enjoyed the sound of the waves. When we'd finished our exhausting day (Zoe style), we got some ice cream (Passionfruit, lemon, and strawberry), and had lunch. (Arroz con mariscos with un batido de plátano for me, and Bistec a lo pobre and jugo de naranja for Jay. Bistec a lo pobre "Poor man's steak", basically, is rubbery, flattened and very cooked beef served with french fries, a fried egg, and some rice. Jay seems enthralled, and I have no explanations for you.) I then succeeded in buying a lovely sarang and we hung out near the coast, watching soccer games and observing the sunset from our perch upon some rocks. Before leaving, we had pisco sours and French fries (Jay's idea again) and then headed back to Trujillo to get our stuff and wait for the bus to Cajamarca.

For now, enjoy some photos. These are all Jay's because my photo format can't upload from here... So, I will take photos of him as well with his camera so it won't be so frighteningly Jessie-centric. Ah, and Jay also chose which ones to upload, so don't mind the dogs in Huanchaco. He felt pity for the little one.



Trujillo:






Huanchaco:


03 December 2008

Landing in Lima

Lima, Peru:

For a city known in parts of the world as one of the most dangerous, Lima was fantastic. We arrived at the airport at 8 PM. At the recommendation of our hostel, we found a taximan from the company "Taxi Green" and told him the address of our hostel. After figuring out where we were going, he asked if we were from Barcelona. When I told him we were from the U.S., he was very surprised and complimented our Spanish (Jay's too!). So... that's promising, right?

He was a very nice man and it was really nice to talk to him. Actually, he did most of the talking, giving us tons and tons of advice on where to go in Peru. Unperturbed by the fact that we are spreading our 4 months among 9-10 countries, he suggested that we go to Lima, Cajamarca, Trujillo, Chiclayo, Piura, Tumbes, Arequipa, Nasca, Pisco, Ica, Puno, and especially to Cusco, his favorite city.

Ah, and a quick note about airport customs. When filling our our declaration sheets, it stated (in addition to the regular $10,000 limit, electronics, and alcohol stuff) that any foreign beverage with the name "Pisco" on it will be confiscated. HA! I know that Chile and Peru have a rivalry about who invented the delicious brandy, but that was pretty unexpected.

We finally arrived at our Hostel (Albergue Miraflores House). They served us free piscolas (Peruvian Pisco - a type of brandy- with lemon juice and coca cola), gave us maps of the city, and arranged for bus tickets to Trujillo for the next night. The common room had musical instruments, a television with lots of DVDs, and a computer with an internet connection. The computer was almost always in use and, as our room was right next to the main room, we were worried that it would be very noisy. However, everyone went to their rooms by midnight and it was very quiet... plus we had the guitars (Jay) and internet to ourselves.

In the morning we went for a jog along the coast in Miraflores (the neighborhood where our hostel was). We got views of the water covered in fog and seaside parks during our run.

After showering, we went to the center of Lima. We saw the Plaza San Martin, the Plaza Mayor, San Francisco church, and Santo Domingo convent, to name a few.

It was a really great day and, above all, our hostel was fantastic. We want to return to see more of Lima and much more of Miraflores, and if we stay the night again, we'll definitely return to the same hostel. As I right this, we're on the bus to Trujillo...More updates to come!





02 December 2008

Preliminary reports from a Central American airport

San Salvador, El Salvador:

Our plane is leaving in about 90 minutes and we're in the waiting area...waiting. There is a huge window in front of us through which we can see the beautiful flora of San Salvador. There are tons of trees out there and it looks like it is probably humid and warm, although the waiting area is cool and dry. I want to explore the city, to run around outside after having sat all day... although we're still in the Northern hemisphere, it looks like it could be Summer out there. (Maybe it'll actually be too hot when we get to South America?) I am very excited, but at the same time nervous. It's been a long time since I've been here (or rather, in South America) and my Spanish is much worse than it once was. Regardless, I want to travel and improve my Spanish (and "Chilean"). Jay is being a great sport - He's trying to communicate in Spanish and is even practicing with the Salvadoreans. He just bought "Narnia: El León, la Bruja, y el Ropero" and he's putting a lot of effort into understanding it.

The televisions here are all programed to the same station of Christian music videos... It's quite terrible and Jay thinks it's actually more in the realm of "musac". On the plus side, one advantage of our 5-hour layover here is that I've had time to perfect plans A, B (in case we don't get into Brazil), and then C and D as well, just for funsies. So, if we can't end up going to Carnival, at least we'll have a tempting consolation prize of more time in Chile (Chiloé, Santiago, Atacama), Bolivia (Lake Titicaca), and Peru (Puno, Cusco, Huaráz, Iquitos) before heading off to Venezuela.